Heritage Trail

Penang! “How old school!” said a friend when I mentioned that I have recently visited this former trading post off Malaysia’s west coast! Well yes. It is barely a southern version of Ibiza or even a hedonist’s paradise, but it does have other attributes. The “old school” I think she was referring to is the Penang of the 70’s and 80’s when it was a well known stopoff on the hippie trail that meandered across Asia from Europe, the days when Phuket was nothing more than a tropical island with a few local fishing villages. Well things have changed.

Penang is special for many enjoyable reasons. Through its long history of trade and colonisation, the most recent one being the British, it has retained its unique, somewhat somnolent character, a little like Singapore enjoyed a few decades ago.

Chinese and Indian quarters merge together with imposing Chinese clan houses and temples and a mosque or two, right in the midst of little India. Indian music blasts out while long curls of Chinese incense burn slowly, sending tendrils of smoke heavenwards to appease their gods.

While the New Age diversions you can experience in Bali have not quite reached Penang, old age esoterica is well in place. You can have your palm read, or your astrology charts done by genuine Indian mystics. Hindu fortune tellers will give you their vision of your future for a few dollars.

Due to some enlightened urban development strategies decided some twenty or thirty years ago, planned development was concentrated in new areas of the island rather than in the older historical quarters, with the result that Penang is now an island where the old mingles harmoniously with the new. Five minutes out of old Georgetown brings you to imposing new shopping malls and blocks of ultra modern condominiums with views over the languid Malacca Straits.Yet at the same time the heritage areas retain an authenticity missing in most other Asian cities, which have been aggressively modernized out of all recognition. I have met senior British people in Singapore wandering about with tears in their eyes because they can’t find any of the landmarks of their youth- well the same could be said for Kuta! But Penang remains reassuringly the same as it ever was, but better. With the largest area of extant Chinese shophouses possibly in the world, Penang finally achieved UNESCO World Heritage Status. Together with the demise of the Protected Rents Act in 2000, it has caused a gentrification of Old Penang. Dozens of fabulous old houses have been restored, and in some cases, completely rebuilt. Even traditional Chinese families are taking new pride in what they once perceived as their shabby old properties. Paintbrushes, and the hum of carpenters tools, are the new order of the day. For years magnificent old buildings which had fallen into disrepair, were used as nothing more than storehouses or grubby little factories. Now many are being restored to their former elegance. Foreigners are also buying up properties, creating exiting new living spaces. While the responsibility of World Heritage Status means that the facades must remain traditional, clever architects are creating new living spaces within.

The heart of Old Penang is unabashedly and exuberantly Chinese. Bright red joss stick holders nailed into columns at the side of five-foot ways contain clumps of burning joss sticks and daily offerings, while dim interiors reveal small family shrines alight with candles and effigies of deities. Rickshaws roam the streets looking for customers or more often the driver will park on a corner, put his legs up and exhort customers from his supine position of comfort. If his business is refused, never mind - another customer will appear presently.

Penang’s heritage runs even deeper than its architecture and for those who love Asian food, the little island is a paradise. While each cuisine manages to retain a separate identity, there is much blending at the edges and in the midst is Nonya or Straits Chinese food - which could be the world’s first fusion cuisine. It combines elements of the Chinese and Malay cooking.Penang cuisine is a continual discovery and it is not all found in the fancy restaurants. Hawker food is especially good - a fusion of influences which stem from the many people who have settled on Penang’s shores.

As the day turns towards evening and the temperature drops, streets become impromptu restaurants as food carts are wheeled in to favourite locations, chairs and tables appear, and customers sit down ready to sample whichever specialty is on offer.

The crumbling shop houses house dozens of little coffee shops and restaurants selling authentic dim sum, noodles, wan ton mee, oyster omelettes, cheechong fan and a host of other Chinese treats. It is not uncommon to walk in to a dim sum or other crowded Chinese restaurant and be the only foreigners there. Heaven!

Taxi drivers have the best local food knowledge. If you want to find the best kwayteow, the best Penang laksa, fried noodles or any other of Penang’s special dishes, just jump into a taxi and ask the driver to take you. Even better, hire a car for a few hours and get the driver to take you on a food tour of the island.

People and Places to Stay

New beginnings are bringing new boutique hotels designed to delight their guests. Visitors to Georgetown can choose between the renovated and very plush Eastern&Oriental Hotel, another legacy from the esteemed Sarkies Brothers, or a smaller, more intimate boutique property.

Narelle Mc Murtrie the award winning hotelier of LangkawiBonton fame has been creating a bit of a storm in the heritage district of Old Penang. She has recently restored an old Chinese shophouse at 110 Armenian Street. Its three bedrooms, kitchen and living areas make it perfect for a short term rental.She has also bought up several other old properties which she is converting into very small, intimate boutique hotels in the middle of the old quarter. The properties are all within walking distance of many restaurants and architectural wonders as well as temples, shophouses, and eateries. You can contact Narelleat info@bontonresort.com.my. Or visit their website at www.bontonresort.com. Rebecca Wilkinson is like a character straight out of a Somerset Maugham novel. Rebecca is a true child of Malaysia – daughter of a rubber planter, married to a son of another planter. They have set up a fabulously rebuilt old mansion in backstreet near the Indian Quarter. The big comfortable house was completely restored to its former glory. It is also linked to a sister property on Pangkor Island and they also run a pinisi called Tiger Blue which offers cruises through the Indonesian Archipelago. They can be contacted through rebecca@tigerblue.info.

Chris Ongis one Penang luminary who has returned to his roots after years as an international investment banker, and hotelier in Sri Lanka’s old Galle Fort. He has now turned his talents to his home town and created Clove Hall. This elegant colonial house offers luxurious living in a guest house situation. Too small to be called a hotel, it is certainly a fine place to stay. Sarong clad bearers pad about ready to provide you with whatever whim you can concoct. It is not to be missed. www.clovehall.com or email to manager@clovehall.com.

A fabulously renovated Chinese mansion called Cheong FattTze has been in operation for a few years but this does not lessen its grandeur. Renovated using traditional techniques it has the air of a well run museum and guests tend to tiptoe about hoping not to disturb sleeping ghosts. But whether one chooses to stay there or just visit, it is certainly a place on the heritage trail. www.cheongfatttzemansion.com

Another reason to visit Penang is its cost effectiveness. With an exchange rate of 3.5 to the US$$ everything is cheap cheapcheap which allows us to enjoy enjoy enjoy. Electronics, health supplements, cameras, and no doubt computers, are all good buys, not to mention the food and accommodation. Air Asia flies to Penang daily via both Singapore and KL.